A foggy start to the morning. Mom & Dad’s 60th wedding anniversary today.
A pleasant and uneventful trip to Moss Island. The group of cruisers left about the same time we did so had them with us for awhile. All of us drifting through the fog.
The weather cleared long enough to enable us to anchor in another beautiful spot. The scenery changed with the skies. We saw one fishing boat motoring through the channel but that was all after we left the Thunder Bay group.
At Dock in Red Rock
Had planned on staying another day in Rossport and hopefully getting a ride into Schreiber to get some groceries but our ride did not pan out. Weather started to clear so decided to head to Red Rock where we know we could get provisions and maybe do a wash.
A beautiful trip passing many islands with magnificent cliffs. Red Rock marina was busy. A group of cruisers travelling together from Thunder Bay. Had a visit from one couple who were from Ottawa and since Mary B is registered in Ottawa, thought they would come over and say hello, which was nice. Mike found out where to get Finnish food once we reached Thunder Bay, so he was happy.
A pleasant day.
Rossport Dock
Motored to Rossport. Never seems to be the right kind of wind to sail. Were able to tie up at the Municipal dock. Almost like being on land! The town itself was a bit of a letdown. Couldn’t even buy a loaf of bread. The only store we saw, the gift shop, was closed, which, from looking at the pricey items in the window, was probably a good thing.
A nice break for me as we had dinner at the Rossport Inn, circa 1864. An interesting place with rooms and cabins. Supper was okay - good soup, good whitefish, terrible corn. But I didn’t have to make it! Our server was from Tasmania, in Canada working in Winnipeg and Rossport for a year before heading back home. There was also a young couple from Switzerland. More people arrived who were from Switzerland and Quebec. A happening place and the most people we had seen in quite awhile.
The dock attendant and a buddy kept us entertained as we watched them hauling lumber along the CPR rail line. Apparently they were building a ramp for their bikes. Nice to see young people with initiative and making their own fun.
Internet very slow but was able to catch up on emails and Facebook.
Narrows between Barr Island and Wilson Island
Rick left early this morning. Mike took him over to the trail that would take him to the highway. Hopefully not meeting any bears! Down to 3 for the next 2 weeks.
Up anchor this morning and headed out. Took a look at a pretty anchorage at Petit Ecuts. May go back on the down trip.
The anchorage between Barr and Wilson Islands is well protected with very tall trees. Very dense forests with eagles looking for dinner. A bit of zigzagging to get into the anchorage but well set in 15’ of water.
Sunny skies but a cold wind and fog moving in and out. Baked some bread which took quite a while to rise because it is cool in the boat. Am becoming quite deft at bread-making which, at home, is Mike’s job.
A good day.
Another good day seawise. The sky always interesting - clear, cloudy, light, dark. Anchored in a small cove SE of Terrace Bay. A bald eagle was sitting on the cliff watching us anchor, so we named the cove Eagle Cove. It flew off just as we anchored and didn’t return. Lowered the dinghy and rowed over to the mouth of the Aquasabon River to scope out where Rick needed to go on Monday to catch the bus for Thunder Bay as he needed to go home for a couple of weeks.
A nice walk along a trail up to a little bridge that crossed the river. The weather turned warm enough to bring out the black flies, and since I was dressed for -20, I got rather warm. Beautiful spot.
Stopped at another small rocky island on the way back to the boat and did a bit of exploring. Frank found a dinosaur bone or a reasonable facsimile. The guys decided to drink of the waters which were clear and cold. Rick said that you could taste the granite.
A beautiful evening. Otters swimming across the bay, a short shower and a rainbow. Talked to a couple of fisherman who motored by. They said that the fishing had been poor as the water has been too cold. Salmon and Lake Trout around. At one time there was thought of building a marina in the cove but decided the entrance was too iffy. Good decision. Since we hadn’t seen another cruising boat since leaving Quebec Harbour, would not have been getting much business this summer. They also talked about the mill closing down which destroyed jobs of course. One of the men had been working in Alberta the past 3 years.
A beautiful start to the day, especially since Mike decided to cook breakfast. Guess he wanted to give Rick a treat before he set off as he got an omelete with chocolate sprinkles. (a Dutch thing I guess).
Called Erin and it was so great to hear her voice. She is doing well and enjoyed a Loreena McKennitt concert.
Warm enough today to lay out on the deck and catch some rays. Mike dinghied over to one of the little islands to do some photographing. A might racket came up at one point and we thought than Mike might be becoming something’s dinner. Apparently he had happened on a heron’s nest.
Left Michipicoton under cover of darkness about 4 a.m. It stays lighter into the night but doesn’t get light early. Along with the dark there was some fog which was a bit disorienting but made it safely past the numerous obstructions and set course for the Slate Islands. Once again using radar and chart plotting and went back to our regular watch schedule. Again no wind so motoring.
No other boats in sight. We did think we saw a drifting vessel, but as we headed over to check it out, discovered it to be a day buoy.
Wind came up just as we were heading toward our anchorage - of course! Thank goodness for sharp eyes and Bonnie Dahl’s Superior Way book - as the chart plotter had us heading right toward the rocks at the entrance to Patterson Cove. Quick adjustments saved the day and we entered a beautiful little cove. One lonely loon to great us.
After 2 pleasant days in The Sault, we headed out at dawn to reach the McArthur Lock. Luckily, a Coastguard cutter was in front of us, so we were able to go straight through. The Superior Adventure was about to begin. A fairly long ride out to Whitefish Bay, but we were finally able to put up some sail for a short while, but with iffy winds and choppy seas, had to admit defeat and bring them in and turn on our trusty engine once more. Our plan had been to make it to Sinclair Cove but with waves against us, we pulled in to Batchawana Bay and anchored for the night off Stoney Point. The anchor set well despite the winds which finally settled allowing us to enjoy a pleasant night.
McArthur Lock with Coast Guard cutter in front.
Light house in Whitefish Bay. You can see wind turbines along the shore.
Upped anchor at 0600 the next morning and headed for Michipicoton Island. Seas were almost flat. The freshwater pump decided to cause some problems, so anchored and fixed it. Since we had lost about 300 L of water, we filled up with clear and cold Superior water. It was also a good time to deal with the holding tank - after filling the water tank of course!
Michipicoton has a few fishing huts on it but little else. Lots of loons though. We anchored in the eastern end of Quebec Harbour. Our neighbours were two other trawler type boats - one Canadian and one American. With unsettled weather, we decided to spend two nights. The weather reports change with each update. Rick and I in charge of listening to and deciphering the weather reports. Quite a challenge.
Michipicoton Island
Foggy morning on Michipicoton Island
The guys filled in their time watching Master and Commander, a birthday present for Mike who celebrated his birthday while anchored in Quebec Harbour. Mike and our daughter, Erin, share a birthday. She turned 19. With no cell service, was unable to reach her. I am sure her friends feted her with her first legal drink!
We’re at the 47th latitude here and it stays light until 10 pm. Was able to write in journal by skylight, which also meant the skies were beginning to clear. A good sign for our departure in the morning.
A nice calm day to enter Lake St. Clair. Slept through most of it as was on watch through the river. Since there was a good weather window, we decided to head out onto Lake Huron instead of overnighting in Sarnia. A strong current through Sarnia had us doing SOG 39 knots.
All kinds of shipping lanes which the freighters were not necessarily adhering too. We were welcomed to a beautiful sunset and continued good weather.
The next day started to get hazy around noon. Sharp eyes and radar came in handy. Water was cold - 48 degrees F. I didn’t realize that Lake Huron was so big. Clouds continued to develop with little moonlight and random showers. An awesome lightning show over the eastern mainland. Winds and thunderstorms were the main during Mike and Frank’s watch and as we entered Detour Passage, they also had to contend with a freighter. As noted earlier, thank goodness for radar.
Rick and I took the watch just as we were entering the St. Mary’s River. Lucky for us, the sky was clearing. There were a couple of downbound freighters to contend with and one on our tail that maintained a good distance.
As daylight approached, the weather cleared as we continued through the river. A nice day for fisherman who were out early.
We reached Sault Ste Marie and docked at Roberta Bondar Marina an 1000 hours.
We spent a pleasant two days here, loading up on supplies, mailing postcards,sightseeing - the guys took in the bush plane museum which they loved. Lots of visitors to the boat looking for food. A nice break before heading for Lake Superior.
Looking across St. Mary’s River to American side.
Mary B at Roberta Bondar Marina
Heading out onto Lake Erie.
July 7 and we headed onto Lake Erie. This lake can be notoriously rough and it was. Lots of Gravol! It was a 39 hour ride from Port Colbourne to Windsor. The chop sent a couple of green ones over the dodger. Thankfully our hard dodger dispels much of the water. Seas finally calmed down and we had a beautiful full moon. We continued to do our 4 hours on, 4 hours off shifts. They went quickly though - both the sleeping part and the work part.
Had to change the Racor filter in the morning, but luckily the seas were calm enough to drift peacefully. Lots of research vessels out and about today as we are near Pelee Island. No time to stop for wine however. Docked at Lakeview Park Marina at 20:45. One of the only places that offers diesel which is weird.
Lots of closed down industries along the river. Huge plants with nothing happening. Nice riverside park on the Windsor side with folks out enjoying the nice weather.
Industry on the Detroit River
Detroit
Sunset in Windsor
Rest day in Port Colbourne. Had originally planned on heading out onto Lake Erie after the locks, but it had been a long day and weather was sounding iffy.
Spent the day working on the boat, sealing up some places that had been leaking, especially in the Vberth. Put in a macerator pump, bought some ink for the printer. Always tasks to do on a boat!
Had nice lunch at the Canalside Bar, checked email - not sure when we will have internet again.
Our 24th wedding anniversary today. Waiting at the Welland Canal to go up through the locks is definitely an interesting way to celebrate! There are 2 other boats waiting with us. Beautiful day today. We arrived at 1000 hours and waited until 1500 before we got the go ahead to proceed. A huge freighter was going down just before we were allowed to enter. Lock 1 turned out to be easier than we had anticipated. Lock 6 was a bit scary but only because the boat behind us went out of control. Lock 7 had a huge hole in the wall that almost claimed 2 of our fenders. Luckily they popped out before Mike had to cut them loose. They could have taken our railing off. Our spreaders were in danger of being smucked as well, but we figured out that there was too much weight on the port side so I ended out using my JBoat skills and did some hiking.
I also managed to make a stew during the locking up as there is down time. My lock stew.
Got through the last lock at 2200 hours. A 2 ft. rise. Easy peasy. Tied up at the municipal dock at Port Colbourne. All in all, a successful and exciting day. And an anniversary to remember.
The Crew: Mike, Janice, Frank, Rick
Sunrise on Lake Ontario after a crazy night of sailing from Waupoos, PEC, Ontario. The start of an 8 week journey to Thunder Bay and back home. This journey had been months in the planning. Provisions for 40 days had to be canned, preserved and purchased. I learned to preserve cheese and butter. Packaged ingredients to make tea biscuits; learned how to keep 20 dozen eggs from going bad, pressure canned chili and spaghetti sauce. All while working full-time as a teacher. We were headed on an adventure, and preparation was the key. It served us well.
Read MoreMy first introduction to the Faroe Islands was while watching the show, Househunters International. At that time, it reminded me of a smaller version of Scotland or Ireland; I was intrigued. Then, while researching photography trips to Iceland, I found an excursion being offered by Iceland Photo Tours. A scroll through the photos on the site had me sold and it wasn’t difficult selling my photography buddy on them either. We immediately booked the trip for August 2017.
I have been serious about amateur photography for about 4 years. It was an activity my husband and I enjoyed doing together, and then with his sudden passing in January, 2013, it became an outlet for me; something to get me out of the house. I joined two photography clubs – one a monthly meeting type of club, the other a get outdoors, hike, enjoy nature and take some pictures type of club. I met some wonderful new friends and with the second club, ended up doing road trips to Texas (I live in Ontario, Canada), Quebec, Newfoundland, the Prairies, and the Canadian west. My new photography friend, Daphne, and I had been discussing Iceland and the northern lights for awhile, so it was with that in mind that I had been following the Iceland Photo Tours site. Once we saw the Faroes, it was never mind the northern lights, we were going on an adventure to a place no one had even heard of!
Getting there is not easy. We flew to Keflavik, Iceland, bussed to Reykjavik, and then boarded another plane for the flight to Vagar, Faroe Islands. I am a nervous flier, so when the approach to the airport in Vagar, was between two cliffs, there was huge trepidation. Later, I discovered that the cliffs were farther apart than they appeared from the aircraft, which relieved my mind for the flight out. We were staying at the Hotel Vagar, a 5 minute walk from the airport and since we had arrived a day early, were able to become familiar with the surroundings, walking down to the town of Sorvagur, marvelling at the small plots of farmland, the sheep, the horses in the backyards, and the order of it all. We had our first encounter with the national bird – oystercatchers (or Tjaldur as a local woman informed us); watched in horror as a tern and gull fought to the death, and admired a family raking and gathering hay on their small plot. Already, we realized that we had made the right choice.
We met up with the rest of our group the next afternoon: 2 ladies from Poland and 2 from the US (none of whom new each other) and our photographer, Daniel Kordan, who was a bit nervous heading up an all female group. I was unaware at the time how well known Daniel was in the photography world but I quickly learned that he had a special touch with a camera. He was also an amazing teacher and leader; he had the “knack”.
After dinner, we headed out for our first photography shoot at the tiny village of Gasadular where the waterfall Mulafossur takes pride of place. A beautiful spot among countless beautiful places on these islands.
The next morning we took the ferry to the island of Mykines to photograph the puffins. I had seen puffins in Newfoundland, but nothing like this. They were so close and so calm and so photogenic! We had hoped to find a few holding sand eels in their beaks and they did not disappoint. The village was also wonderful. The houses made of wood (where DO they get the wood?) and the grass roofs were so clean and well-maintained. Wild flowers were everywhere and gulls and terns filled the skies. What a magical day. I shall never forget it.
The following morning we drove to Torshavn, the capital city. We were amazed to learn that many of the islands are connected by tunnels, not bridges and that there were even tunnels through the rock. The transportation system was excellent. In Torshavn, we stayed at the Hotel Torshavn. For dinner that evening, Daniel had arranged to have us eat at Aarstova, where the specialty is braised lamb. I am not a lamb lover, but was willing to try it. Turned out to be one of the best meals I have ever eaten. I devoured that lamb and went back for seconds.
We used Torshavn as our home base for the next 3 days, travelling extensively throughout the islands of Streymoy, Eysturoy, Bordoy, and Vidoy, with extensive photography stops at the villages of Gjogv, Tjornuvik, Vioreioi and Eioi. At one point, I think we all lost track of which island we were on and how many tunnels we had been through! Every stop brought new wonders and soul stopping beauty. We were blessed with wonderful weather; so nice that there were people sunbathing on the beach at Tjornuvik. Watching the children playing in the sand and water was one of the highlights of my trip. However, every evening the clouds moved in and our hunt for the perfect sunset was frustrating, although we came close in Eioi. It didn’t matter though, because the days were so filled with delight that expecting sunsets as well, almost seemed too much.
My favourite places? It is hard to choose. Saksun, Gjogv and Tjornuvik probably top the list – and of course Mykines with its puffins. My dream is to return someday soon. Christmas in the Faroes would be an amazing experience, I think. But one thing I know, I will return. The land has captured my heart.
